BAND SAW LOG TRANSPORT JIG |
Have you ever tried cutting a round log, either length-wise or cross-cut, on a band saw? It could be a hair-raising experience! Here's a jig I use quite often since I have logs available to me on my property. I can't remember where I saw the original design of this jig. Maybe it was in Fine Woodworking or some another woodworking magazine. In any case, I know I made significant modifications to that design. The original design had no adjustable base to allow the log to be advanced toward the blade for re-sawing veneers, slabs for box tops or to cut right down the pith for making turning blocks. Here's my version of the 'Band Saw Log Transport Jig':
BASE The base is made from 3/4-inch, full-core Luan plywood. Probably not the best choice but I had a scrap piece the right size laying around so I used it. Baltic birch plywood would have been a better choice for stability. I made the base 36 inches long but it really depends on the length of the logs you plan to cut. the width of the base on my jig is 12 inches and this determines the diameter of the log you can cut. Anything greater that 12 inches will require extending the band saw table to prevent the jig from falling off the end. The first thing to do is rout two dadoes across the base about 20 inches apart equidistant from the center and install T-channels for the adjustment tracks. These dado cuts should be exactly parallel so that the top section of the jig moves forward and backward freely the entire length of the tracks.
Next, a 3/8-inch x 3/4-inch strip that rides in the miter groove of the band saw table is glued and nailed with brads on the bottom of the base. The position of this strip should be such that the front edge of the base (edge towards the blade) is about 1/8th of an inch from the blade.
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TOP SECTION I made the top section of the jig from maple. It consists of a 5 1/2-inch x 26-inch platform with two vertical pipe clamp supports at each end. Two holes are drilled in the platform for the bolts that extend up from the T-channel tracks for the lock-down knobs.
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The pipe clamp supports are about 7 inches high, 5 1/2 inches at the bottom and one edge tapers to 2 1/2 at the top. The center of the 1-inch holes drilled for the pipe are about 4 1/2 inches above the top of the platform. Cut a slot from the top of the support to the center of the pipe hole. Drill a hole from the rear of the support up to but not past this slot. This hole should be the same diameter as the wood screw used to tighten the slot securely against the pipe. Install the pipe and clamp as shown in the photos below. Install the top section to the base using bolts, washer and knobs as shown above.
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INSTALLED ON BAND SAW Place the jig on the band saw so the strip rides in the miter groove. You will need one of those adjustable height roller duehickies to support the in-feed side of the jig since it over-hangs the table quite far. I also have a 6-inch tower extension installed on my band saw so I can cut 12-inch stock. install a log in the pipe clamp, and tighten securely. Position the log by loosening the knobs and placing the blade end of the log where you want the cut to begin. Position the far end of the log so that the exit cut will be 1/8-inch from the base of the jig. Tighten the lock-down knobs. A word of caution here. Be certain that the pipe clamp is not in the path of the band saw blade. This could certainly ruin a good blade. As a matter of fact, it would make sense to install screws in the tracks to prevent the bolts of the lock-down knobs from being advanced too far.
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BAND SAW LOG TRANSPORT IN ACTION Here's some shots of a short beech log edge being cut off. You'll be surprised at how much safer and more stable this is than just pushing a log into the blade. You can also cross cut short logs but they can only be as long as the top section adjustment allows. I have another cross-cut log jig that I will add to this website soon.
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